Friday, May 15, 2015
Friday, March 13, 2015
Friday, February 6, 2015
Download Books/Study Material for Properties of Fibre(TE-211; Section: A)
Download Books/Study
Material for Properties of Fibre(TE-211; Section: A)
1. Morton W E and Hearle J W S,“Physical Properties of Textile Fibres”, 1st reprint, The Textile Institute,Manchester (1993).
2. Hearle J W S, “The Structural Mechanicsof Fibers”, Journal of Polymer Science: Part C NO. 20, PP. 215-251 (1967).
3. Wilding M. A., “Introduction: The structure offibres” Journal of Chemistry of theTextiles Industry, pp 1-45,1995.
4. Pavia D L ,” Introduction toSpectroscopy”, Cengage Learning; 4 edition, 2012.3. Wilding M. A., “Introduction: The structure offibres” Journal of Chemistry of theTextiles Industry, pp 1-45,1995.
Friday, January 23, 2015
Garment Technology (TE-324) Syllabus
JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
GOVERNMENT ENGINEERING COLLEGE SUNDERNAGAR, MANDI, H.P-175018
Department of
Textile Engineering
Subject: Garment Technology (TE-324)
Course
Code
|
TE-324
|
L=3 T=1
P=0
|
||
Name
of the course
|
Garment Technology
|
|||
Lectures
to be delivered
|
52
(1 Hr Each )(L=39,T=13 for each semester)
|
|||
Semester
End Examination
|
Max.Time:
3hrs
|
Max
Marks :100
|
Min
Marks :40
|
|
Continuous assessment
(based on sessional tests 50%, Tutorials /Assignments 30%, quiz /Seminar 10%,
Attendance 10%)
|
Max
Marks :50
|
|||
Instructions
- The question paper
will consist of five sections A, B, C, D and E. Section E will be
Compulsory, it will consist of a single question with 10-20 subparts of
short answer type, which will cover the entire syllabus and will carry 20%
of the total marks of the semester end examination for the course. Section
A, B, C and D will have two questions from the respective sections of the
syllabus and each question will carry 20% of the total marks of the
semester end examination for the course.
- Candidates are
required to attempt five questions in all selecting one question from each
of the section A, B, C and D of the question paper and all the subparts of
the questions in section E. Use of non-programmable calculators are
allowed.
SECTION -A
Garment Manufacturing:
Introduction, Indian apparel industry.
Different garment production systems.
Selection of Fabrics:
Garment from Woven and knitted fabrics, Various fabrics available in market,
their characteristics and applications to suit to different purposes
Pattern making:
Introduction to pattern making and garment, Construction. Different
terminologies. Drafting, Basic bodies blocks, Muslin pattern. Commercial
pattern, Methods of making basic pattern, grading of pattern, size, size
charts.
SECTION -B
Spreading and lay
planning: Introduction to symmetrical and asymmetrical
fabrics, criteria of spreading, methods of spreading, spreading m/cs.
Principles of lay plan, types of lay plan.
Garment Cutting:
Introduction to cutting room processes, cutting methods and their merit
demerits. Bundling system.
Garment Sewing: Introduction to sewing m/c and its parts,
sewing room processes and working details.
Different types of sewing m/c and its suitability, Different sewing m/c
driving system. Attachment of sewing
m/c, Sewing needle and its sizes.
SECTION -C
Sewing stitches and
seams types: Stitch formation, types of stitches,
seam classification, seam geometry seam strength and slippage, seam puckering.
Thread calculation and its consumption
Trimming and Garment
accessories: Definition, types, trimming
methodologies and accessories application.
Garment finishing:
Fasteners, thread tucking, care and size labeling system, checking, pressing,
folding and packing, packing standards for domestic and export markets.
SECTION -D
Garment
PROCESSSING: Preparatory processes. Apparel dyeing,
printing, washing and finishing processes. Apparel dyeing machines
Quality Control in
Garment manufacturing:
Control in pattern making, grading, fabric laying, marking, sewing and
finishing, control of garment defects.
Computer Application in
Garment Manufacturing: Application in pattern making,
grading, lay planning, sewing and finishing, computer aided embroidery designs.
Concepts of computer integrated manufacturing (CIM) to the garment industry.
TEXT
BOOKS
1.
Carr H and Lantham B, “The Technology of
Clothing Manufacture”, Om Book Service,.
2.
P V
and Bhardwaj S K, “ Managing Quality in apparel industry”, Om
Book
Service.
REFERENCE BOOKS
1.
Aldrich W, “Metric Pattern Cutting”, OM
Book Service, New Delhi (1998).
2.
Cooklin Gerry, “Garment Technology for
Fashion Designers”, OM Book Service, New
3.
Eveleyn M and Ucas, “Clothing
Construction”, 2nd Ed., Hughton Mifflin Co, Boston (1974)
Properties of Fibres(TE-221) Syllabus
JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
GOVERNMENT ENGINEERING COLLEGE SUNDERNAGAR, MANDI, H.P-175018
Department of
Textile Engineering
Subject: Properties of Fibres (TE-221)
|
Course
Code
|
TE-221
|
L=3 T=1
P=0
|
||
|
Name
of the course
|
Properties of Fibres
|
|||
|
Lectures
to be delivered
|
52
(1 Hr Each )(L=39,T=13 for each semester)
|
|||
|
Semester
End Examination
|
Max.Time:
3hrs
|
Max
Marks :100
|
Min
Marks :40
|
|
|
Continuous assessment
(based on sessional tests 50%, Tutorials /Assignments 30%, quiz /Seminar 10%,
Attendance 10%)
|
Max
Marks :50
|
|||
Instructions
- The question paper
will consist of five sections A, B, C, D and E. Section E will be
Compulsory, it will consist of a single question with 10-20 subparts of
short answer type, which will cover the entire syllabus and will carry 20%
of the total marks of the semester end examination for the course. Section
A, B, C and D will have two questions from the respective sections of the
syllabus and each question will carry 20% of the total marks of the
semester end examination for the course.
- Candidates are
required to attempt five questions in all selecting one question from each
of the section A, B, C and D of the question paper and all the subparts of
the questions in section E. Use of non-programmable calculators are
allowed.
SECTION –A
Fiber structure: Traditional view of fibre
structure. Chemical structure and physical structure. Degree of order and
degree of orientation.
Structure
investigation: Methods of investigation of fibre structure. Identification of chemical structure by IR
spectroscopy. Identification of physical structure by X-ray, SEM, NMR.
SECTION
-B
Moisture absorption: Definitions of
humidity, moisture regain and moisture content. Relation between regain and
relative humidity. Effect of stress and temperature on regain. Heat of
sorption. Swelling of fibres. Quantitative theory of moisture
absorption.
Fibre
friction: Technological importance.
Measurement of friction. Effect of load and area of contact. Static and kinetic
friction.General theory of friction and application to fiber.
SECTION
-C
Tensile properties: Factors influencing results of
tensile experiment. Expressing results. Different experimental methods. Effect
of variability. Elastic recovery. Effect
of test conditions on recovery. Cyclic testing. Fibre fracture and fatigue. Time effect. Creep and stress relaxation.
Introduction to dynamic testing and fatigue. Concept of models. Kelvin and Maxwell
model. Bending and torsional
rigidity of fibre. Structural
effect on extension behaviour.
Dielectric properties: Definition and effect of different
parameters on dielectric properties.
Electric
resistance and effect of different factors on the electrical resistance of
fibres.
SECTION
-D
Static electricity: Introduction and significance.
Measurement of static electricity. Explanation of static phenomena.
Optical
properties:
Refractive index and birefringence. Birefringence and orientation of fiber.
Reflection and lustre.
Thermal properties: Structural changes on heating.
Thermal transitions. Concept Heat setting of fibres.
TEXT BOOKS
1.
Meredith R, “The Mechanical Properties of Textile
Fibres”, North Holland Publishing Co; Amsterdam (1959)
2. Morton W E and
Hearle J W S, “Physical Properties of Textile Fibres”, 1st reprint,
The Textile Institute, Manchester (1993)
REFERENCE BOOKS
1.
Gupta V B and Kothari V K, “Manufactured Fibre
Technology”, 1st Ed., Chapman and Hall, London (1997).
2.
Hearle J W S, “Polymers and their properties”, Vol. I,
John Wiley and Sons, NY (1982).
3.
Gedde U W, “Polymer Physics”, Chapman Hall, London
(1995).
Saturday, August 30, 2014
A Comparative Study of Organic Farming with GM Farming - Organic Cotton's Advantages
Organic cotton is that cotton which is obtained
from non-genetically modified plants without use of any pesticides and
synthetic fertilizers. As the use of chemicals (whether toxic or not) is
avoided, its cultivation helps sustaining environment biodiversity and helps in
balancing the ecosystem.
One
of the major drawbacks of non-organic cotton cultivation is its harmful effect
on the health of farmers and excessive pollution caused due to continuous use
of insecticides and synthetic fertilizers to get additional yield. Although the
cotton consumption rate has also increased which calls for additional
production, but at the same time balance between the nature and ecosystem has
to be maintained.
Organic Cotton: Image Source
In
general, in a 100% cotton product, only 70-75% is cotton and the remaining percentage
constitutes of thousands of chemicals, binders, and resins which are used in cultivation
and product manufacturing. So one way or another, chemical consumption in our
daily lives has gone up, in form of various products that we use every day, be
it clothes, handkerchiefs, bed-sheets etc.
In
organic cotton cultivation, untreated seeds or non-GM cotton seeds are used. As
no insecticide or synthetic fertilizers or other poisonous chemicals have to be
used, the soil must be nutrient rich. In order to maintain the soil fertility,
cotton is grown in alternate years with cotton as main crop and red gram/ green
gram/black gram, pea/soybean or maize/sorghum/legume as intercrop with crop
rotation.
Deep
ploughing should be done on yearly basis to destroy larvae or cocoons. Green
manuring and use of plant leaf litter also helps to improve soil fertility. Weeding
from organic cotton cultivated field should be done manually or hand-hoeing
method should be adopted instead of chemical use.
Benefits
of Organic Cotton
1. In
case of GM cotton cultivation, farmers and workers suffer from respiratory
problems and skin allergic reactions. However, as use of toxic chemicals and
synthetic fertilizers is avoided in organic cotton cultivation, health risks
have reduced to certain limit.
2. Organic
farming plays a vital role in reducing environmental pollution as eco-friendly
techniques are used for cotton cultivation.
3. As
GM cotton seeds are highly expensive and a very high hike in their price is
observed every year, which increases the expense of farmers. But in case of
organic cotton, seed price are constant and their yield is nearly twice as
compared to GM cotton.
4. It
has been found that non-organic cotton final product which we are using in our day-to - day life contains
toxic chemical residue which can be absorbed through skin and can cause allergies or skin rashes. However, the end products
made up of organic cotton are chemical free and ecofriendly.
In
a nutshell, Organic Farming is best suited for Indian ecosystem and Indian
ethos. We might have an ever increasing population whose demands can be
satiated by increasing the crop production by genetically modifying the seeds
but we are not yet in a position to handle its aftermaths. When medically
advanced European nations are still doubtful about the potential threats of GM
seeds, it’s appropriate that we Indians stick to the conventional forms of
farming, which have been tested over a long period of time.
Friday, August 22, 2014
Genetically Modified Cotton or Genetically Engineered Cotton (Bt Cotton)
Cotton
is India’s important cash crop which gives employment to more than 50 million
people of country starting from its cultivation to finished end product. Cotton
is grown on 32 million hectares around the world while the cultivation of
genetically modified cotton (GM) accounts for nearly 25 million hectares from
the total. In India cotton is cultivated in about 12 million hectares, ranking
second in global cotton production after China. More than 92% of India’s cotton
production is genetically modified.
 |
| Bt Cotton Cultivation(Image Source) |
What is genetically
Modified (GM) Cotton?
The
bollworm, which is a main crop’s pest, destroys a large percentage of the
cultivated cotton every year and farmers in return uses insecticides and
pesticides up to 20 times a year to reduce the bollworm effect and to increase
the cotton production. In 1997, Monsanto introduced new cotton variety into the
market which was highly resistant to the bollworm. This pest resistant cotton was
engineered with a bacterial gene by Monsanto Scientists from the Bacillus
thuringiensis (Bt; gene donor) which contains very specific insect poison.
Genetically Modified
Cotton in India
In
2002, Bt cotton was introduced in India by Monsanto under the trade name
Bollgard, in a joint venture with Mahyco, a Indian seed company with aim:
i. To reduce the pesticides amount required
for pest control; which will further help in reducing the pollution caused by
insecticides and pesticides.
ii. To increase the farmer income by
increasing the cotton production as the crop losses due to pest attacks were
expected to decrease.
Within
the few years of Bt cotton cultivation, India’s contribution to world’s cotton
production increased from 14% in 2002 to 20% in 2007 but a quick and dramatic
change was observed in this pattern. The productivity of cotton started to
decline from 566 Kg/ ha in 2007 to 475 Kg/ha in 2010 which is further estimated
to drop up to 300 Kg/ha in coming years.
The
factor responsible for the failures of Bt cotton in India includes poor quality
seed, erratic rainfall, bollworm resistance to Cry toxin produced by Bt cotton,
emergence of secondary pests like mealy bug, thrips etc. and change in the
agriculture conditions, as Bt technology was developed in US, so it is not well
adapted to Indian cotton cultivation environment.
To
overcome the failures of Bollgard, Monsanto in 2006 introduced Bollgard-II in
the market which is having two Bt genes instead if single gene as in case of
Bollard-I.
Impact of Bt Cotton in India
Impact of Bt Cotton in India
i Farmers from different parts of the
country who have cultivated and harvested Bt cotton complained of respiratory
problems and skin allergic reactions.
ii. Many farmers reported that their cattle
have died after grazing on plant debris from cleared Bt cotton fields.
iii. As bollworm has developed resistance to
Bt cotton, the use of insecticides and pesticides has increased in the cotton
fields. Emergence of secondary pests has forced farmers to use highly toxic
chemicals to reduce their effect on the cotton yield. Thus the expenditure on
the insecticides and pesticides has considerably increased although the fact is
that Bt cotton production has shown decline in the recent years.
iv. Bt cotton seeds are highly expensive as
compared to conventional hybrid cotton seeds. Further, these require proper
irrigation and costly fertilizers to increase the yield. So, the farmer cost
factor has increased.
v. As Bt cotton has failed to overcome the
farmers expectations, it has resulted in heavy human toll. When the farmers are
unable to pay their loans which they have taken from banks or moneylenders due
to factors like decline in the cotton production or collapsing of cotton
market, they are left with choices none other than either to live in poverty or
to commit suicide. A report shows that in 2008, nearly 16,195 Indian farmers
have committed suicide and in 2009, the number has increased to 17,365.
vi. Bt cotton has encouraged dependence on
single seed supplier as no one can find conventional hybrid cotton seeds in the
market. So, farmers are forced to purchase seed and herbicide from the same
supplier on high prices.
Bt
Cotton, at first glance looks like an essential requirement considering the
huge population of our country and our limited land resources. However, the
long term implications of Bt Cotton are not at all in favor of the populace as
well as the vegetation.
Probably
the stance of governments needs reconsideration with respect to Bt Cotton.
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